Monday, April 14
Ah yeah, no better way to establish I'm on vacation than going for a hike on Monday morning! 😆 I woke up and escaped/check out of my hotel in time to stash my luggage at the station and nab the 9:55 train out to the Rheineschlucht. This little canyon features some interesting landscape, nice views, and apparently some hardcore people even do kayaking in April.
This particular train route is part of the Bernina Express' route; I won't be making it out to Piz Bernina this trip (St. Moritz is really out of the way) but the route is fairly clear on this cup holder.
Hmm, I'm glad I've been able not to think too much about politics back home for a while; I suppose that'll have to change soon. In the meantime, lemme hit the head in this train station and get on with my day.
As the name might imply, the Rhine works its way through this canyon and has carved out impressive walls and structures from crushed limestone deposited here long ago by a massive landslide.
Compared to Geneva, the water here is full of sediment and looks very shallow in some spots.
My walk took me through some sandy river plains before taking a narrow strip between the river and the train tracks. Where the train passed through a tunnel, I had to climb while the river had to pull a 90 degree turn.
Overlooking the river bend, I had the option to continue following the river or turn to scale the southern rim of the valley. I opted to press on with the river then do the north face.
Hmm, maybe I'd better stick to the trail that's off to the right of this sign...
The flatland areas near the river featured a lot of roping off: I guess it's nesting season for some bird that likes this area? I didn't mind sticking just to the path, though I was flabbergasted that the Swiss would leave a fallen tree in the path like this.
Given that I need to be in Lucerne by 4pm to interview someone applying to my NJ facility, I only had a couple hours to hike the area. I picked an ambitious wanderung, which involves crossing the river and climbing up to the rim; I had to call it early and turn back before I reached the official scenic view point, but I feel I had gotten the gist of the area.
Walking this bridge while the train was also crossing would've been an interesting experience, but I didn't get the chance (or make the chance) while I was here.
Once I'd crossed to the north face of the chasm, I started the task of climbing; the trail was in excellent condition but did feature a bit of huffing and puffing in the steeper sections.
Now that's how you spruce up a bellevue, add in some nice accoutrement.
I'm gonna miss the bountiful drinking water and free firewood in Switzerland...
When nature calls, make sure you have some nice cedar wood chips on hand. I wonder what they do with the nightsoil that comes out of this thing.
Hmm, smells kinda like a hamster cage 😂. Anyone have ha translation for "pissoir"? My gut tells me that it's not one of those toys that you speak into and someone on the other side can hear.
Turns out the trail I'd opted to follow wasn't exactly a hiking trail, but rather a mountain bike trail. I stopped a bit short of the true observation tower but I soaked in the view from my grassy spot.
The mountains of Grissons may not be as imposing as a bunch of 3000 meter peaks, but they sure are nice to look at. They're like the Jura in that respect but it's strange that all areas I've visited in Switzerland still feel so distinctly different as landscapes.
While making my way back, I took a slightly more legitimate-looking path and stumbled upon this observation post over a field. I think maybe it's for hunters looking to spot deer: the view of the field was supreme but not so much improved for the rest of the region. It was only after I'd descended that I realized the thing was held together with hopes and dreams.
Over the field and through the woods, a river runs through it.
Just a little off the top, please.
With only 20 minutes left to the train station, I took a small break to rejuvenate with some local cheese
On life's journey, be sure to stop and smell the roses taste the cheese
Back at the river bend and the final approach to the train station, I took a bit more time to appreciate the southern face of this place. The loose material holding everything together was similar to what one would find in a badlands and was capable of leaving impressive pillars.
I wasn't the only person waiting for the train back to Chur, there was even a bus that showed up just prior to the scheduled train stop.
Imagine everyone's surprise when this Glacier Express showed up and occupied the track for 5 minutes. It wouldn't have been a big deal if our train didn't pull up on the track behind the Express a few minutes later 😅 Fortunately, our train waited for the Express to get out of the way so we could actually board.
I had just enough time in Chur to grab my bags, board the train, and find a seat on the eastern side of the train. I'd looked on the maps prior and wanted to have unobstructed access to the lake views that would be on the route. I will say, the S and NE of Switzerland has definitely impressed me; even without the dizzying height of the Alps, these past two days have had incredible views, starkly different cultures, interesting architecture.
I highly recommend stashing one's bags either with the hotel concierge or at the train station; the 4-6 CHF it cost me to store my stuff at the station was 100% worth the cost. It saved me a trip back to the hotel and allowed me more time to explore unencumbered; and as you can see, these lockers are quite spacious and secure.
One of the local specials to try in the Grissons canton was this walnut tart, which was simply delicious. Buttery beyond belief with a sweet, nutty filling inside; it reminded me a lot of a gateau basque with its shape and butter sensation.
I almost needed a nap after my hike and decadent dessert, but I managed to rally and soak in the countryside. There was no shortage of mountains to my right and they only increased my interest in the area as we progressed.
This section along the Walensee took my breath away and made me want to climb mountains; like those look so pristine!
This area is the St. Gallen canton and beyond these mountains lies Liechtenstein. If only I had more time...
And then suddenly I was back in the Schwyz canton and getting an overview of the Zürichsee before swapping trains. Can you spot the difference between this region and St. Gallen 😂
And on final approach to Lucerne, I spotted a few of the gardens and aquaculture setups I'd noticed on my first time into Lucerne en route to Lugano.
I ended up snoozing a bit on the last leg from Thilwill to Luzern, I think all the relaxing after the hike had lulled me into a siesta mode. Fortunately, Lucerne was the final destination so I didn't have to worry about missing my stop 😂 Oddly, I think I'd seen a few of the scenes going in the opposite direction just on Saturday. From the station I quickly made my way to the hotel, which is above a British pub called Mr Pickwick, which I'd found had a surprisingly affordable solo room on short notice. Oh, check in is simply done at the bar counter haha.
There it is, Lucerne's iconic foot bridge! My hotel offers a view from my room right over the bridge! I think Mr Pickwick is a franchise in (at least) Switzerland cause I remember briefly walking past one in Geneva.
I can appreciate the flair that goes into the fountains of Switzerland, they never miss to have it well decorated.
It wasn't the clearest afternoon but I was still impressed with the view of the far off mountains. The lake here seems plenty busy like in Zurich.
Oh neat, a paddle wheel boat. Lemme just get out my apple hat real quick.
I had planned to be in Lucerne this afternoon to catch an interview with a candidate for a chemist applying for my facility. And I'd planned the timing just right, I was set and refreshed for a 4pm interview and then a 6pm presentation; though, it turns out that the presentation got moved to 3pm so I missed it. Oh well 🤷♂️
Afterwards, I touched base with my boss regarding flights home. Essentially, my plans have shifted because of the Trump administration's policy of making life miserable for immigrants. So despite my girlfriend's impeccable paperwork, it's not worth the risk to follow through on our first plan (visit Iceland) and we're now considering more domestic vacation options. A bit more research, followed by a shower left me feeling invigorated for seeing Lucerne.
I walked up to the big church in town but all was closing so I didn't bother attempting to get in. Still, always good to have a large landmark to start.
I managed to find my way to the big tourist draw of town: this carved lion sculpture and the Alpine garden. The garden museum was closed for the day but I expect it's one of the big "must sees" in town. The sculpture below the garden was swarming with tourists, some of who stopped to read the panels posted about how the lion was carved to attract tourists 😆
After climbing up a hill, I found that there was a park with a bunch of towers making up the old rampart; it was too late to climb up the towers but I suspect that could make for a decent activity for someone else some day 😂
The park itself was pretty nice; I really couldn't have asked for a better evening to enjoy the stroll.
Two of the better decorated buildings I found in the old town of Luzern; the streets were beginning to quiet down a bit too despite the sun still being high.
Ok, maybe not so high that the people in the fancy castle on yonder hill weren't already in shadow. Serves them right for being up on the hill with all the power.
Aha, another horizontal turbine; there must be wisdom in the old ways.
Imagine my surprise to discover Luzern has two pedestrian foot bridges; though this one included power generation instead of simple style.
The bridge might've brought the hydropower, but I brought the style.
There were a lot of these panels decorating the bridge, many were originals saved from before the bridges caught fire. I don't know why a couple of skele-bros were featured so much but the one with a mandolin looks like he really knows how to melt faces.
I think there was something like 7 towers along the ramparts, each built differently; I'm curious but really am ok with leaving it at that 😆
Time to complete the loop via the old church bridge; oddly, the tower in the middle features a souvenir shop...
Time to embrace the more Germanic cuisine in this area with a brat, a beer, and some potato salad at the rathaus brauerei 😋
And a little nightcap to finish out a long day.
Tomorrow, I'm back to the Berner Oberland. I really liked what I saw of Switzerland's extremities, the mountains and culture feel a bit different out that way. I suppose mountains make natural barriers that help develop distinct cultures and now it's all easy for me to traverse by train but it really did surprise me how different things felt within this small country. I think there's definitely more to see and experience out in those parts.
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